Friday, December 21

necessary and beautiful things

I know that I don't need much things. Basically, nothing except air, food, water, some heating or warm clothes. But there are things that make me feel good. Today I finally gave up and bought a normal pan and also an iron. If I can afford it and it makes my life easier and more pleasant, maybe it is necessary... You can have an ugly, old sweater and it satisfies the basic need, but it makes you feel uncomfortable and stress. Then I guess it is necessary to get a sweater which you feel comfortable in. Luxurious necessities, I guess that's the name.
Actually I went to the big Bit Pazar market to buy some more of the dark blue knitting thread. It was not a very smart idea because today is the day after the small Bajram (Muslim Christmas) and most of the shops in the market were closed. I did find the same knitting thread, but not in the color I need. I found also a shop in the center, which sells knitting threads, but again not my color. Clearly not my day.
But in the meantime, I visited the fortress finally. From Charshija it is not a big climb. I was walking and suddenly I was already there... There were some couples, it was sunny and really beautiful :) Some pics for you too, but as you know photography never shows the truth. Ugly things always look beautiful, but beautiful things don't look even close to how beautiful they are in reality. Sorry for nonsense text maybe because there are people around and we are talking all the time and I cannot concentrate on my sentence :P













Wednesday, December 19

50 cent for 5 euro

Tikai tagad nesmejieties - es vakar biju uz 50 cent koncertu Prištinā. Tas ir tāds diezgan populārs melnais reperis no ASV...hands up, shake that ass, pull those pants up and down a little bit (tiem, kam nav ne jausmas, par ko es te runāju).
Jā, un viņa tūres ietvaros, dīvainā kārtā vienīgais koncerts vispār tuvākajā apkārtnē ir tieši Prištinas pussabrukušajā stadionā. Uz biļetēm, plakātiem un ekrāniem fifticents ir saķēris savu melno galvu un rūpēs saraucis pieri. Vietējie jokoja: kur es esmu nokļuvis, kāpēc es piekritu, kāpēc es nepieprasīju vairāk naudas, vairāk litru viskija un vairāk skaistāko meiteņu (par atlīdzību tika baumots sākot no 300 tūkstošiem līdz 1,5 miljoniem dolāru, raiderī it kā esot 200 litri viskija un 200 litri šampanieša, un katrā tūres pilsētā viņam vajag arī skaistākās meitenes...skaitu gan īsti neatceros).
Izskaidrojams šim neizskaidrojamajam faktam ir diezgan vienkāršs - nenormālie slovēņi un viņu mārketinga metodes. IPKO šādā veidā penetrē tirgu. Līdz šim Vala 900 bija vienīgais mobilo sakaru operators Kosovā (piedāvājot numurus ar Monako starptautisko kodu). Tagad slovēņu uzņēmums IPKO, kas līdz šim piedāvāja interneta sakarus, ieiet tirgū ar nedaudz lētākiem mobilo sakaru pakalpojumiem un SIM kartēm ar Slovēnijas starptautisko kodu. Biļetes uz koncertu varēja iegādāties vienīgi, iegādājoties SIM karti. Par 1 SIM karti par 5 eiro varēja dabūt 1 biļeti. Par 5 SIM karšu paku (numuri pēc kārtas un lētākas sarunas starp šiem numuriem) par 20 eiro varēja dabūt 3 biļetes. Kopumā ļoti ātri šādā veidā tika izpārdotas 20 000 biļetes Kosovā un 15 000 ārpus Kosovas, kur dzīvo albāņi. Tātad vismaz 35 000 SIM karšu.
Par pašu koncertu. Ir bijušas lielas zvaigznes, kā Džeimss Blānts un Meraija Kerija, Kosovā, bet viņas pārsvarā uzstājās amerikāņu vai angļu bāzēs, nevis vietējai publikai. Tā nu šis bija pirmais lielais koncerts ar starptautiska mēroga zvaigzni un, protams, visi, kam nebija slinkums izstāvēt kvartāla apkārtmēra rindu, bija tur. Bija gan bērni, gan lieli mužiki spīdīgos kažokos, gan laucinieki, gan ar kruķiem... Iekšā spiešanās bija biedējošākā manā mužā, burzmā nebija saredzama metāla reliņu štanga un vienā brīdī mani uz to vienkārši uznesa un bija kaut kā jārāpjas pāri. Labi, ka zābaki man tādi lēti, jo bija nomīdīti it kā būtu nez kādus dubļus bridusi. Sargu un biļešu pārbaudītāju acīs bija skaidra panika. Stumšanās un grūstīšanās gāja vaļā arī koncerta laikā un tā gaitā nejauši nonācām gandrīz vai pašā priekšā.
Iesildītāji bija kaut kāds sviests. Vietējie reperi, kuru dažas dziesmas pat tā kā zinu, bet dzīvajā kaut kā pavisam neskanēja. Varbūt arī tāpēc, ka tikai neilgi pirms 50 centiem, vienam tehniķim izdevās piekonektēt tumbas. Ārā bija ap mīnus 10, balts sniegs (perfekta, skaista ziema, par kuru Jūs Latvijā tikai sapņojat). Seksīgā dziedātāja Nora Istrefi tik un tā demonstrēja savas silikona krūtis un krūštura aizdari uz kailās, brūnās muguras. Protams, vairāk kā 2 dziesmas viņa nevarēja izturēt. Arī citiem reperiem laikam sala un maksimāli pēc 2-3 dziesmām viņi aiztinās, pirms tam nokaitinājuši pūli, samainot dziesmu tekstus un ieliekot beibju un zaķu vietā māti, kas visiem albāņiem ir svētā cieņā. Tā vismaz viņiem izdevās pacelt gaisā pūļa rokas (tikai tagad ar zināmu pirkstu kombināciju), jo uz Hands Up neviens neatsaucās. Viena grupa tika pavadīta ar šķiltavu sniegavētru.
Beigās palika tikai viens džekiņš, kas bija uz skatuves visu izpildītāju uzstāšanās laikā, un dīdžejs. Dīdžejs lika populārus klubu hitus un džekiņš vēl mēģināja saukt Hands Up, bet pūlis palika neiekustināms.
Tomēr drīz pēc tam, kad tobrīd jau cietajam pūlim cauri izspraucās amerikāņu karavīri ar automātiskajiem ierociem un pavisam neiederīgiem tuksneša krāsu aizsargtērpiem (aizgulējās vai?), uz skatuves uznāca 50 cent un sniedza diezgan pieklājīgas kvalitātes un kvantitātes koncertu. Pūlis arī iesila vienā sekundē un, jāsaka, diezgan labi pārzināja repertuāru. Pēc koncerta puiši man blakus gan jokoja, ka izskatījās, ka 50 cents ne vella nesaprata, kur viņš nokļuvis, jo Prištinas vai Kosovas vārds ne reizi ne tika pieminēts. Varbūt viņam neteica, kur viņu ved, bet varbūt vienkārši aizmirsa. Kāda gan tur starpība, ja var iztikt ar Here, In This Place un galu galā Hands Up!
Koncerts beidzās ar tiešām kolosālu uguņošanu! Varbūt vienīgi Rīgas 800 gadi var ar to sacensties manā atmiņu bagāžā. Tā bija arī ne tikai skaista, bet arī iespaidīgi gara. Puiši man blakus atkal jokoja, ka tā tiek noturēts pūlis, kamēr pa klusu aiztransportē 50 centu drošākā vietā. Pēc uguņošanas pagaidījām, kamēr pūlis aizplūst. Līdz ar aizplūšanu atklājās diezgan iespaidīga nozaudēto vai norauto mantu kolekcija. Es arī izvēlējos vienu šalli par piemiņu no šī pasākuma.

Thursday, December 13

salsa nights in skopje

Yesterday was my 2nd time in Van Gogh on salsa Wednesdays. In the beginning I could not get the salsa mood and salsa steps, it is really a dance to feel in your hips, in your body. If i just repeat the steps, it feels and looks stupid (actually it is true for all the dances, but salsa and other sexy Latino dances is the most stupid). People came late last night, only half past 10 it was getting full. And it is closing at 12 as all normal bars in Skopje. So for 1 hour it was hot in there and I was really getting the salsa moves! It was actually nice :)
I was talking to one guy (Macedonian by origin, but Swedish by... everything else). He is 1 month here only. He was saying that his friends were surprised that there are salsa parties in Skopje and not just turbofolk. And we agreed that salsa is not really our thing, but we have ended up here already not the 1st time. And we have not been to any real Yugoslav party and also we need to find some rock cafes.
One guy stuck to me in the toilet of Van Gogh and was telling many times how beautiful I am and asking how he can meet me again. I clearly sent him to hell, but he was not giving up and actually with a sense of humor. I liked his friend more, who was not so clearly asking for sex but had an intelligent look of neurosurgeon (what he actually is). VCS (Volunterski Centar Skopje) people were in Sektor last night, there were some alternative short movie shows and one guy of VCS had also his movie(s) shown there. Sticky guy and neurosurgeon offered to take us there by car, which was actually good because we would have never found this place ourselves (or it would have taken a considerable amount of time). Sticky guy had a really nice car with intelligence system (hello, doors are open! bye...lala) and light leather seats. They paid us the entrance to the place and I got one more beer for free. I had quite an interesting talk with both guys... Gosh, what happens with these intelligent, good looking males after 40? It is actually sad. But I am never fucking out of sympathy. And I am taken, almost married. Zafatena. Točka

Wednesday, December 12

gloves


My new gloves - a result of a bit calmer weekend :)
COLD, YOU CAN COME NOW!

Sunday, December 9

TAKSIRAT WAS THE BEST!




I think I really needed a change of music. It was GREAT, COOL, AMAZING, MAGNIFICENT, FANTASTIC, AWESOME, SIMPLY THE BEST!
Count another fan of Dubioza and Laibach! And I want to see those guys from Kumanovo again.

Saturday, December 8

last week (busy as always)

Monday,
I took the bus at 11:30 from Prishtina. At 15:00 in the children village. Viki had planned to make the Activity game (guessing words by showing them or drawing them), but was not working out very well with the small kids. They wanted to draw. There were some guys from a marketing agency who were making Christmas cards with kids before. Kids are really kept busy these last weeks before Xmas because there are many businesses who want to promote themselves in this way...


In the evening was dancing again. We were learning Ciganchica. Maybe people were tired, maybe the dance was really harder than the previous ones, maybe the teacher is not really good at teaching...probably it all together, but it was not going very well this time. The guy is definately better at making steps simple and explaining them so that people understand. This girl is just showing and want us to repeat.
After the dance, we went to Alberts flat for a meeting about the International Volunteer's Day on Wednesday. It was Dominique's birthday, so most of the time we were talking nonsense and eating a cake. I would have boycotted this late meeting, but I had to wait for Ljubo to come with me to the police and register me. We went to police almost at 1 am and then I could finally go to bed..

Tuesday,
Business Incubator in the morning. At 15 I was meeting Natasha from Slovenia whom I met first in Prishtina the previous weekend. We walked a bit around Charshija, went to the old train station and then I showed her the way to the bus station and went to the language class.

Wednesday,
The International Volunteer's day. There was even a short story in the newspaper next to a story about Brad Pitt. First we went to the Kisela Voda office, folded some flyers. Then went to the square, next to the European Information Centre. It was a very windy day and nothing wanted to stand on the table, so laptop was mainly used to hold the flyers. We got some red and yellow balloons


and went on distributing flyers. I met Jeremy from CS. After the work we went to Sagafredo Zanetti cafe again to have some drinks. Here is my roommate with Nicolas having some fun:

The new local volunteers for Voices seem really nice. Jeremy was mostly talking to Dominique. Then I took him home, made some dinner and had to go to the center again to meet Natasha because she agreed to take me to the dentist. The dentist was a really cool, old guy who has fixed teeth of many NATO guys of different nationalities. I was his first Latvian, though. His clinic was in a private appartment, interior was quite retro, but anestesia was available and plombs were modern. Alex and Natasha took me home by car and inspected my appartment:)
In the evening we went to Kisela Voda again, had a nice party with candles, bambus and sweppes&white wine drink with fruit pieces, and version of the mafia game with werewolves.

Thursday,
In the morning we went to Bit Pazar to buy materials for the jewelry and christmas decorations workshop in Detsko Selo on Friday. I bought new very pink bedsheets because I wanted to change the finally and wash them. I bought them from a very nice muslim girl. It is not an uncommon sight to see these girls with headscarfs working. Especially in Bit Pazar or center of Struga. And they do look very nice.
After shopping I went for a bit to the YES BI. And then was the time go to the test in Macedonian language. It was not hard, but it was my mess day: misswrote things, skipped some letters, confused latin and cyrilic letters. So we have finished the first level and we will get a certificate.
In the evening we went to Albert's flat again for a St. Nikola celebration. They have made a lot of food but we had just eaten. At midnight I went to the center to meet 2 guys and go to Terry Francis night in Colosseum nightclub. I was doubting it while sitting in the flat because I was falling asleep and nobody wanted to join me. But I still wanted to see what a real house electronic party looks like in Skopje. Though, it is not my stuff at all, it was nice. It was strange that many girls and also guys looked more like coming to opera or theatre... but people were dancing and appearantly having fun. I also went to the weird VIP balcony this time, though as always it took some negotiation. And they don't sell any Skopsko on the VIP balcony, only Heineken because of some special agreement. Skopsko costs 100 in Colosseum, Heineken is 140. So, I took Gin&Tonic because it was just 10 denars more - 150. And it was good, finally not too much alcohol. Too much alcohol is a very comon problem for cocktails in Skopje. Generous bartenders. Yuck!

Went to sleep at 3 am because the guys had to get up early as well.

Friday,
I got up at 6 to say good-bye to Jeremy and went back to bed. At 10 in Detsko Selo. Inese and Nicolas also came as journalists. Kids enjoyed making jewelry, I and Anja were enjoying making Christmas tree decorations. Everybody made a big mess with fliters. The problem was that kids kept all the things and only my christmas tree decorations went for the Christmas market.
After Detsko Selo we went with Anja to Albert's appartment to finish yesterday's food. Viki went to the center first to meet some Hungarian woman. I with Anja were coming to Ramstore at 15, but we got so carried away in converstations that came more than half an hour late. We walked to the German embassy which is quite far away, hidden against the slope of Vodno. There was a German Weinnachtsmarkt.





We drank some Gluhwein with a good addition of rum. Carsten came later and boughth some really tasty cookies. It was packed with internationals and little kids. So naturally all our talks were about pregnancy and giving birth. We left Carsten and went to hunt for a taxi. It was not so easy but finally we got into the warmth of Ramstore supermarket, bought tickets for Taksirat festival (which is tonight) and went for a coffee at Doctor's.
Back in Avtokomanda, I still went to Anja to finish the leftovers and then almost straight to bed.

Today,
Slept nicely till half past nine. I hate the heating here! I thing that is the thing that does not make me recover completely and after each night I feel my throat again. In the evening it is warm, then somewhere at the night they turn off the heating at all to turn it back at morning around 7... do they think I will not notice that? The windows are not isolated well and I feel every change.
Anyways, I won't give up and went to run finally again. Drank my tea but my throat is still feeling weird. Here I am longing for a calm day at home with a book, tea, knitting maybe. But tonight need to go out again...Sigh

Saturday, December 1

Moments of Magic

Life is ART. Sometimes I look at something and it goes straight to me, hits me actually. And the time stops.
I just crossed the border of Kosovo. It is raining. It is dark. There was a huge white dog on the border. It was running away, actually limping: jumping hard on his front legs and kind of pulling himself out from the roofed customs into the rain and darkness. A bright spotlight was shining onto him. He was some fifty meters away from me, but I could clearly see the rain drops on his fur and his heavy, steamy breath. Like it was amplified. A moment of Art. A moment of Magic