Da Name Issue

It was bad all the time, but now it has reach the culmination because R.Makedonija is eager to join the NATO and other international organizations. Greece is going to veto them. Greece wants it to find another name... Macedonian politicians are working with sweaty foreheads and coming up with some options, which could satisfy both Greece and local inhabitants and would not lead to changing the constitution. There are some options on the right-hand side for your consideration and voting :)

[Republic of Skopje, Republic of Vardar, The Central Balkan Republic, Dardania (well, offered by Greeks, but I don't think it is considered at all because it is Albanian tribe and covers more the territory of Kosovo), Slav Macedonia, Vardar Macedonia, Upper Macedonia, New Macedonia, North Macedonia, Republic of High Macedonia (Gorna Makedonija), Republic of Macedonia (Skopje), Republic of Macedonia–Skopje, Democratic Republic of Macedonia, Independent Republic of Macedonia...]

My mom wrote me yesterday that she was flying from Skopje to Prague with some "činas" (VIP) because other passengers could enter the plane only through the second entrance, but on the first ramp there was the red carpet. Soldiers had to glue it to the asphalt for the wind not to lift up any corner. The guard of honor was in such interesting costumes that my mom thought they are going to dance folk dances. More guys in civil clothes were running around and talking on walkie-talkies. Inside the plane the Business class curtains were closed all the way and disembarkation of "normal" passengers was also delayed.
My mom was asking maybe I saw something in the news who were those VIPs, but actually I have no idea what is going on and who exactly is visiting Skopje these days. I just know that special unit ALFA or WOLVES guys in gray camouflage costumes with automatic weapons are standing each 500 meters on most roads. When I was coming back from the Skopje airport after saying byes to my mom, they were each 100 metres on both sides of the road and all the way till the city. When we were returning from Ohrid earlier, simple soulders in khaki uniforms were sweeping the asphalt near the Parliament building. There is police everywhere these days, with sirens and some VIP cars after them. Police is making a big mess in the traffic as well. They should not be allowed to regulate the traffic. They seem to be even worse that the unreliable Skopje traffic lights, which can just go off one moment, or green can appear simultaneously for everybody (cars and pedestrians for all directions), or it can skip green for one traffic lane at one time...
Yesterday, I finally finished my tooth. I have a metal-ceramic crown now. My first crown...it was a big psychological move. After it was done, to compensate for all my suffering, my sweet Macedonian dentist asked his son (who is also dentist, by the way) to make me some tea with rakija, whiskey or ouzo from "our Greek friends." Unfortunately I got just a simple chamomile tea without anything, though I cannot say that I was protesting much. It was all a joke and they did not have any ouzo or whiskey, just rakija. But it facilitated our talk about these last developments. I also started to read the daily newspaper which bore a review on the name issue on the front page (the same as all newspapers since more than a week ago...). So we had quite a nice talk in my broken Macedonian over politics with my dentist and his dentist son. I also had to introduce Latvian history and politics a little bit.
This is not going to be any official opinion, just my subjective one (with factual addition from both dentists). I have a feeling that what Greece is doing now with fighting for the copyright, patent or call it as you wish of the name "Makedonia", it is putting territorial claims on a much larger territory. Macedonia is a historic region, which covers parts of the current territory of Greece, FYROM, Bulgaria, little piece of Serbia and little piece of Albania. If you want to see the borders of Macedonia as they were in the reign of Macedonian Alexander, you can go even further... Although people here have tendency to megamania and love and sorrow for lost empires, lets stick to the more moderate borders of Macedonia.
As my dentist said, Macedonia (Former Yugoslav Republic of) borders with Macedonia on all sides. The biggest part of the region is indeed in Greece and is called Aegean Macedonia. The part now in Bulgaria is called Pirin Macedonia. And the part I am living in now is called Vardar Macedonia. When the pie was divided Aegean piece went to Greeks (though not without pain from the Bulgarian side, which were largely inhabiting the region and ruling it before and in between and always hoping to get back the exit to the Aegean sea...but always picking the wrong ally in the World Wars: Germany), the Vardar piece - to the Serbs, and the Pirin piece was left for Bulgarians.
There was a big difference between Athens and southern part of Greece and Salonika in Macedonia - the northern part of Greece. When Greeks kicked out all the Turks and Bulgarians from the northern part of Greece, i.e. Macedonia, they named it all Greece or Hellas (Hell Ass...). So maybe they want rename themselves to Macedonia now? No. Then why don't they want to let another country use this name? Why Bulgarians are not putting a claim too, because there is a big region of Macedonia in Bulgaria as well? Why it is so impossible to have the same name for a country and a bigger region? Macedonians living here in this name-less state do not have another identity. They don't feel neither as Greeks, nor Bulgarians, nor Serbs (ok, a big part do feel like Albanians :)).
I was surprised that Macedonian Greeks in their capital Tessaloniki do not really care about this issue that much as Macedonians here in FYROM. The volunteers living there had not heard much about the debate, and the newspapers bore different news on the front page and maybe just a small piece about their northern neighbors. There were no protests of people on the streets like here in Skopje. So what are Greek politicians so worried about and why do they need all this? Not that there is such a big passions from their nation. Or maybe there are, just they are too lazy... :)
It do look like stupid old-fashioned Byzantium ambitions. And in my opinion, the West should not support Greece so much. There is not much to love them for except the things the current Greek generations are not responsible for, such as Pantheon or Mount Olympe, or Olympic games...or the natural tourism attractions. And the European Union knows what kind of liars they are and have been acting too much as a kind mother to a beautiful, but spoilt child.

P.S... maybe I do have a subjective point of view because of my information space, but forgive me that

a letter from near the ocean

Hi! My mom landed successfully from her Amazing Race through European airports and testing different airlines (she preferred Croatia Airlines). First day we spent at the Children Village. She could not resist helping us with teaching methodology and joined the English language Beginners' course for the Village's moms and aunts.
Later that day we took the bus to Prishtina and went for a dinner together with my ljochka Shpetimi. On Saturday we made an excursion to Prizren where we very unexpectedly met Antoine and Carsten from Skopje, Antoine's brother and Amelie, a volunteer from Krusevac. Later the same day we went out in Prishtina, in Pejton where I met with Lena, a German girl from Prishtina Summer University 2007. The day of meetings. We had some beer and rakia, and then went to 212 Club. DJ Bambooka sucked (he is an OK drummer, though), there was too much smoke and I was falling asleep standing.
On Sunday we came back to Skopje, quickly changed clothes and continued to Ohrid where I sit now. Kosta who owns Villa Kosta is a very nice guy, he explained me perfectly how to get to Sv. Naum today and was just extra sweet. I will spread a good word about his apartments. So today everything went smooth except the weather. It was a real storm today. First was just windy, but sunny. Then big dark clouds started to come from the mountains. And later was also raining. And big wind again. But luckily we managed to escape the rainy moments and find a sanctuary in the many cafes and restaurants. I do love the restaurant Belvedere. Since my first time in Ohrid, I go to eat dinner only there. The waiters there are gold and I just want to leave a tip even if it is not the rule in Macedonia.
Lake Ohrid looks like a real ocean today with green blue water, big waves with white hats, and invisible opposite coast. Colors are amazing. I think I will have very beautiful photos from today, with a better camera they would be like from National Geographic. While walking today, we went into one ph9to gallery. A short trip around Macedonia in pictures. It was perfect and the photos were great for decorating a stylish apartment. Nobody could guess where the photos are from. Certainly not Europe.
My photos will come later...keep posted.
Dace

this one is just for fun

...that is how they are solving road problems in Latvia. In one Latvian town, Alūksne, the streets are with big holes. They did not fix the streets but just put a road sign when entering the city that the bumpy road is in the whole territory of the town.

Murphy again

My mom had such a bad luck with her trip to visit me here. First, the weather just got cold, cloudy, rainy and yesterday, at least, there was a lot of wet snow. When I looked at the weather forecast yesterday, it was said that the whole next week is gonna be like this.
And this morning I get an sms from here that they took off, flew a round and returned to Riga Airport because of some technical problems. So, I think she is losing the spirit... Now all the passengers are still waiting outside the office of Czech Airlines and trying to change and return tickets, and get more information.
Poor mom, I send all my good thoughts, wishes and energies for here in my mind and in the World Wide Web.

Ba-ba-baaaaaaaaaah

Albert came yesterday out of the blue. Missing me probably, I have not been in their flat lately when he is at home. And he got straight down to the business - went to buy a new light bulb for our bathroom, got a chair, we discussed which way the light is off and made a logical decision...and BA-BA-BAAAAAAAAAAH FIREWORKS AND SMASHED GLASS ALL OVER THE BATHTUB. IT EXPLODED! Albert is really lucky that no small piece of glass flew in his eye. But he was under shock long time after. And went home. He promised to return this morning and disconnect the electricity in the whole flat. The metal part of the light bulb stayed inside of course, it has grown inside with all the rust... He still has not turned up. Maybe changed his mind after all :)
I sticked a big note ATTENTION! EXPLOSION! on the bathroom door last night so that my flatmate who was out did not think of taking the bath when she comes back during the night. And this morning I was trying to pick out all the small pieces from the bath (mostly) and floor. I tried to rinse away the rest, but the shower is still not working properly. Strangely yesterday when I tried to show it to Albert, it worked quite fine...Damn Murphy
***
I was talking about this guy already earlier yesterday because I could not get chamomile tea anywhere yesterday. The tea which is the most common over here and is always in stock, yesterday was almost impossible to get. And I need to drink a lot of it for my tooth and gums to heal faster. Well, it is just an extra reason, because I do like it. And when I like something and I am told it is good for me, I want it double as much.

Milda sessions in Tessaloniki

Last weekend I went to Tessaloniki finally to meet a Latvian EVS from my pre-departure seminar. She is leaving tomorrow early early morning at 5 something... Was her last weekend in Tessaloniki and my last chance to meet her there because there is not a big chance she will ever come back there, so happy to leave she was! And she is not the only having this mood, which made me think why EVSes want to shorten their projects and are happy to leave from Greece but in here in Macedonia the general mood is completely different: most of current EVSes want to extent their projects and stay in Macedonia. Because in general lines the EVS problems are the same here and there... Maybe too much capitalism in Greece kills the only beautiful sentiment and innocence and hospitality and country-sidedness of people here in the Balkans and leaves only the ugly side of the same things. But maybe it is just the subjective reasons of the individuals involved in this enigma. Because we met a real Latvian-Greek, who stayed in Tessaloniki after his EVS and loves it.
I did like Tessaloniki and I cannot say that all Greek people are rude. The officers are. But ice-cream sellers are not.
We went to some documentary photography excibitions in the Museum of Photography. The one from Afganistan had too much Canadian Piii-aaaaR. But the other one was great with pictures from all current hot spots in the world. Great shots and great summaries.
After that had my chicken suvlaki and Greek coffee (hahaha...Greek, Turkish, Albanian, Bosnian, Serbian...coffee) at the blue-eyed table of the Milda nation talking the Milda language and staring at aging Greek cleavages.

Sunday evening I was back home and got to know shocking news that the owner of our flat died. He was a very nice, cheerful, energetic guy...he seemed. But had a weak heart and got a lethal heart-attack on Thursday. I felt out of place and my knees felt week when I was going to register in the police again. Death is still impossible for a human mind to comprehend.

Today we played games with children and started to teach English to their mothers and aunts. ABC. I met Maria - the new German volunteer with 2 kids, all of them "gypsy-style". From the little communication I had, she really seems a nice girl and kids are simply heart-killers.

After that I had to run to my Macedonian dentist because I finally made up my mind to make my first crown. It was a lot of zzzzzzzzzrrrrrrrrrzzzzzzzz drilling because most of the tooth is the plomb. Now I have a temporary crown and in a week or so will get real procelain.

In the evening dancing again. And after that eating eating eating...starving. But cannot chew much so mostly bananas and yoghurt, some cheese toasts and a little chocolate. I watched Dr. House with one eye but mostly chatted with my ljochka and now there is a stupid discussion about Macedonian name and identity on TV. AGAIN. I MUST GO TO TURN IT OFF!!!

Strumica: final part

Yes, the party was great at the end. We stayed at that loud bar next to my internet cafe. We did not go inside because there was a nice wooden floor outside (which we broke later in the night...) and the music was loud even outside. We seemed a bit attraction because many people came to sit around us and watch and only a couple of Turkish guys joined in dancing. But better few good Turkish dancers than 300 Macedonian cigarette-dancers. I did have a loooooooooooot of fun dancing with one guy, completely sweaty and cheeks aching from laughing. Some of the weirdest kind of aerobics Strumica has ever experienced :)
After that we went for a big fast food meal and back to the crazy students busses. At 6 something I was at home and before 7 I was in my soft bed.
Put my alarm at 10:30 because we had to go to the Children Village. After some fresh air yesterday before and after the little bit of rain, today was fking damn hot. I was sunbathing in short-sleeve t-shirt while kids where pressing potatoe "stamps" on a piece of cloth. While sunbathing I made some stamps from potatoes: star, boy, house (even 2), heart, and a chicken foot.
Did my accounting for January and February finally. And then went for a jog in the football warm-up field. Then I had a beautiful aromatic bath in our short bathtub which required some deal of flexibility. And my bath was especially romantic because we still don't have any light in the bathroom and have to use a candle.
Had a talk with my mom about her trip to Macedonia (very very soon...next week) and a cup of hot cocoa. And now it is really time to go to bed again!

night in Strumica

I am now sitting in an internet cafe Dakar in Strumica. There is a load music from a bar next to it. It is a nice cafe but full with these teenage boys even in the biggest night of Strumica Festival (carnival). I did not plan to come here at all. But then I went to Kiril&Metodij university today, to the AEGEE-Skopje office at the Law Faculty and the student union next to it had a poster offering a ride to Strumica at 16h and back at 4am for 349 MKD. I thought a bit and why not. I have not seen any of these crazy carnivals here in Macedonia. And Strumica is one of the most famous ones. Almost each town has it and nobody really knows what is the meaning of them and how this tradition started. They try to imitate the Brazilian carnival and it is somewhat connected to pagan traditions, fasting, spring etc. All I know. But it is fun, some groups have really worked on masks, decorated trucks and choreography, but some guys just walk alone. One old lady had made a bit cross with something like butterfly wings and had real trouble carrying the construction...:) Anyways, it is very democratic and that's why it takes so long time. Half of Strumica participates plus guests from Macedonia and all the Balkans.
Well...so I took the student bus. There was a bit of chaos. Again some traffic problems, all traffic lights were off and policemen were organizing the traffic. Big traffic jams and 2 busses were lost somewhere. As I was alone I just joined one bus and sat on the seat next to the driver. Really nice seat actually with a nice view :) There was lots of singing and parodies of Tose Proeski songs. Mojot zhivot became Mojot index (there are texts about unwritten and torn pages etc. :))
The shitty thing was that all the smokers came to smoke in front, sitting on the stairs on the floor. And mostly girls, some 3 girls came 2 times. And they were asking for Pauza since we just moved. All the way :P The driver said that we are going to make 8 hours long Pauza in Strumica :)
I cannot sms Inese or Viki because it seems that the network is down. Too many people here. I think I am going for a drink now, really thirsty...and I dont know what I am doing for 5 hours...
Ok, managed to reach Inese thanks to Skype. She said they are coming here in 30 min. Maybe we have a nice party at the end. Just the stupid thing is that I went into a supermarket and fell in love with a set of 4 mugs. So I have to carry some (modern) Chinese porcelain with me into a nightclub :P

springy rain feeling high

Still sticking to my busy schedule, smelling the seducing aroma of spring rain, enjoying blossoms blossoms blossoms, feeling sorry for poor gypsy horses, enjoying the snow in the mountains, visiting very-beton university of Kiril and Metodij, nice AEGEE-Skopje people, observing the local business meeting style...magic eyes of a pretty grey cat on a balcony, one bottle of Laško Temno and I need to run to catch a student bus to Strumica Festival. I did not plan to go there but don't want to miss all weird Macedonian festivals :)

long way to snowy Sarajevo and some big thoughts

I am just back from midterm training in Sarajevo and full of energy to do something. Today I am trying to think of a youth exchange bringing together young creative people from different countries with a common wish to change things, create their own way and throw away the take-job mentality. In one word: young entrepreneurs.
But regarding Sarajevo. It was cool in all possible senses. We had a problem with cloth and shoes choice because we did not expect it is going to snow (and snow so much!). The snow was melting and my fabric sneakers were getting wet in the exact second I stepped out of hotel. Now I am back in sunny, dry, 20 degrees warm Skopje and Sarajevo looks like a distant dream.
The training was nice, was so nice to see almost all the familiar faces from my on-arrival training and some new faces as well. It felt so cozy to share our similar experiences and feel understood. And yes, as I said at the end: I was amazed how smart and talented we all are! The future of Europe is in good hands:)
The first night was great irrespective of the rude service at the Brewery. But I really enjoyed Akademski Kulturni Centar, the live music, no oxygen, almost naked guys, singing along, heat... the atmosphere was magic. And the next nite we organized our own magic party at Hotel Grand. First bringing alcohol with big bags on a muddy trail over the rails and an empty train station, second dancing at something like Bregovič, second drinking a lot and lot of Herzegovin red wine, having very deep nonsense conversations and still being drunk in the morning. I think I missed it and it was the right time and the right place, and the right company.
It was sad that the training was only 2 days. I had the feeling that it finished just after it began. And I am starting to get the same feeling about my EVS. My best mates here Viki and Anja are leaving in less than 1 month and I have less than 4 left for myself. Where are all the things we planned to do together? A bit depressing... and a bit stressing. Now I want to run and grab everything, take it to the maximum. Enough of opušteno!
Yesterday we went for a nice dinner with Viki. There was a wedding in the restaurant but we could get a chicken steak from the grill and Šopska salad. And we had a long talk at my glass of wine and Viki's glass of Gorska Voda. About the pros and cons of the life in the Balkans.
Yeah, maybe I am really undergoing that 2nd BIG CRISIS...

t'qifsha gripin e nones*

I went for one weekend only to Kosova, for the independence celebration. But the end I stayed there almost 2 weeks and I arrived in Skopje only 2 days ago - on Thursday afternoon.
First, as I wrote, my boyfriend could not be in Prishtina for the independence declaration on Feb 17. He returned to Pr only on Feb 18 and I wanted to spend some time with him. Ok, a little bit unstable situation, a very extraordinary event - everybody will forgive me if I stay a couple days more. When I was already packed and ready to go "home", I found out that all kids are sick with flue at SOS Children Village and that we don't need to go to "work". Ok, it was Thursday then....on Friday there is no work. I can stay for another weekend, why not?
I met 2 Latvian KFOR soldiers and their interpreters. We met in the National Park, had a coffee and then we all joined my boyfriend, his friend and some other guys for a basketball game. One of the soldiers went to play while I was talking to the other one. I was a bit nervous because of their strict rules, and what to ask and what topics I should avoid... plus I don't usually like to be considered crazy because I do not feel I am crazy myself. Still, it takes time to change this predisposition. I also know with what kind of katunars (peasants) they need to work with and there are many of them (katunars, I mean)... Anyways, the bottom line is that I was a bit stressed and negligent towards my boyfriend. Plus a few more misunderstandings, and we got into a silly fight. I did want to leave the next day but he did not want to let me go before we reconcile completely. And I did not feel like going either.
And then we got the damned FLUE. Maybe the fight killed our immunities, so it hit us especially badly. But it sounds that this year it is especially nasty. The nasty year. It is characterized by high fever (38-39C), terrible deep cough, pain all over the body (especially back...dunno why), stuffed nose - of course.
But now I feel much better and soon going to Sarajevo! MIDTERM TRAINING!


*untranslatable swearing in Albanian